A blog, mostly about my work making Jewish ritual objects, but with detours into garment making, living in New York City, cooking, and other aspects of domestic life.
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The light themed tallit has been shipped!!!
I had begun speaking to Sarah about making her a tallit in the middle of August. It took a few weeks to nail down the design. For Sarah it would have been ideal if the tallit were completed in time for her to wear it on Rosh HaShanah., the beginning of her year as senior rabbi of her congregation. For me, in an ideal world, given the realities of preparing for the High Holidays I would have finished this tallit in the weeks after Sukkot. So we compromised and I shipped off the tallit last night. I would have prefered to have more time but I got the job done in time.
This tallit was made to mark Sarah's rise to the position of senior rabbi but it was also a reaction to this year of darkness. She chose a selection of verses about light to be part of her tallit.
1) אֵל נוֹרָא עֲלִילָה God of awesome deeds (from a yom kippur Liturgical poem)
2) אוֹר חָדָשׁ עַל־צִיּוֹן תָּאִיר May You shine a new light on Zion (from the liturgy)
3) יָאֵר יְהֹוָה פָּנָיו אֵלֶיךָ וִיחֻנֶּךָּ May God shine his face upon you and be gracious to you ( from the priestly blessing
4) לַיְּהוּדִ֕ים הָֽיְתָ֥האֹורָ֖הוְשִׂמְחָ֑ה וְשָׂשֹׂ֖ן וִיקָֽר׃ The Jews enjoyed light and gladness, happiness and honor. (Esther 8:16)
5) א֭וֹר זָרֻ֣עַ לַצַּדִּ֑יק וּֽלְיִשְׁרֵי־לֵ֥ב שִׂמְחָֽה׃ Light is sown for the righteous,radiance for the upright. (Psalms 97:11)
6) נֵר יְהֹוָה נִשְׁמַת אָדָם The lifebreath of man is the lamp of the LORD (Proverbs 20:27)
Sarah wanted the tallit itself to be gold and white to evoke that sense of light.
Each verse appeared twice on the tallit, ( one time on each side) except for the first text which appears only on the atara.
With the exception of the binding, the atara is all handwork.
The letters are hand embroidered and the embellishments are all done by hand on a base of a linen /lurex. Because Sarah is a rabbi and will often be facing away from her congregation, I made the atara both bigger and flashier than I would for a congregant.
The stripes themselves were made out of different raw silks that I had in my stash. I used different embellishment techniques on each stripe before painting the text onto the silk.
Each stripe was edged with a different combination of ribbons and machine embroidery stitches.
Using gold and white I felt that I had to find the balance between "Elvis in Vegas" and something totally bland. I think that I was successful. There is SO MUCH gold and yet the tallit isn't gaudy.
Some traditional tallitot have either a seam up the middle that lies on the spine or a decorative stripe corresponding the the spine. I think that the origin of that spine/stripe is a practical one because it allowed a wide tallit to be made on a narrower loom. While I began making this tallit I noticed a few tallitot in my community that were made with such a decorative "spine" I thought that there was something powerful about the spine of the tallit and the spine of the wearer aligned together. For me, the "spine" recalled the verse from Psalms 35:9
Sarah liked the idea, so I constructed a "spine" out of a mix of ribbons, trim, and embroidery stitches. I tried to get my work to evoke vertebrae.
Here is the back view of the spine.
I decided to make the pinot/corner pieces out of the same metallic linen as the atara.
I serged each square to a raw silk backing.
But as you could see they were too large and impinged on the pretty couched cording stripe.
I maked and cut to size each of the corner pieces.
Then I had to figure out how to edge the pinot. Often when working on a tallit I will get trim ready for use and may or may not use it.
I had stencilled ribbon with a scalloped lace motif which I had thought would use to edge one of the stripes. Instead I used it to edge the pinot/corner pieces.
The eyelet was made with white heavy rayon thread and a fine gold thread. Each element of the tallit is made with extra bits of shimmer. Metallic paints were enriched with extra metallic powder. echoed the scalloped lace motif with a scallop stitch in taupe.
You don't necessarily see all of the small details consciously but they all add up to a pleasing whole.
I tied the tzitzit because a rabbi has other things to do in the days before Yom Kippur.
Over the past several weeks my head has been filled with these texts about light. My head has also been filled with the challenges of making this tallit work as a physical object that will be comfortable to wear and sturdy and function as work wear for for a clergy person.
As I photographed the tallit yesterday I was reminded of a poem we recite on Yom Kippur describing the the appearance of the High Priest on Yom Kippur after he emerged from the holy of holies.
The tallit is due to arrive to sarah tomorrow at noon. I hope that she likes it as much as I do.
Sarah, how could she not love it. I learn so much from you and haven’t said, “Thank you for sharing.” I say so now. My heart bleeds for the people of Israel. She will wear her tallit with it’s special meaning for a long time and be thankful to you. Liz in Tucson
Liz I can never be sure if my clients will actually be as pleased as I am...Most of the time that is true...but occasionally I miss the mark and that feels awful. Some of my readers ae folks from the universe of sewing and they understand all of the sewing processes and term,s. others of my readers come from the Jewish world and the texts and rituals are as familiar as the simplest sewing tasks are for you. I have to make all of it clear to all of my readers...( and at the same time not sound like I am talking down to people ( Ugh! the WORST!)
Thank you Vivien....and now you know my secret goal ...to get my work to cross over from ritual object to art...I don't always get there...but sometimes I do.
What a beautiful piece, Sarah, and so much meaning. I always enjoy reading about how you go about making these, and deciding on things from the verses used to the color scheme to how you work out the design. Each post is an education to me, as well as an inspiration. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Charlotte. I know that most of my works is very niche...and not the the lovely Lutheran niche that is your spiritual home. I appreciate that you are willing to dive in here with me.
A few months ago I had a craving for my father’s chicken fricassee. If my father were still alive I would have called him up and he would have talked me through the process of making it. My father is no longer alive so I turned to my cookbooks and the recipes I found for chicken fricassee were nothing at all like the stew of chicken necks, gizzards and wings in a watery sweet and sour tomato sauce that I enjoyed as a kid. I assumed that the dish was an invention of my father’s. I then attempted to replicate the dish from my memory of it and failed. A couple of weeks ago I saw an article on the internet, and I can’t remember where, that talked about Jewish fricassee and it sounded an awful lot like the dish I was hankering after. This afternoon I went to the butcher and picked up all of the chicken elements of the dish, a couple of packages each of wings, necks and gizzards. My father never cooked directly from a cook book. He used to re...
My parents bought this tablecloth during their 1955 visit to Israel. It is made out of linen from the first post 1948 flax harvest. The linen is heavy and almost crude. The embroidery is very fine. We used this cloth every Passover until the center wore thin. You can see the cloth on the table in the background of this photo of my parents and nephew My Aunt Sheva bought my mother a replacement cloth. The replacement cloth is made out of a cotton poly blend. The embroidery is crude and the colors not nearly as nice. The old cloth hung in our basement. We used the new cloth and remembered the much nicer original cloth. I loved that my aunt wanted to replace the cloth, I just hated the replacement because it was so much less than while evoking the beauty of the original. After my father died my mother sat me down and with great ceremony gave me all of her best tablecloths. She also gave me the worn Passover cloth and suggested that I could mend it. I did. Year after year ...
Sarah, how could she not love it. I learn so much from you and haven’t said, “Thank you for sharing.” I say so now. My heart bleeds for the people of Israel. She will wear her tallit with it’s special meaning for a long time and be thankful to you. Liz in Tucson
ReplyDeleteLiz I can never be sure if my clients will actually be as pleased as I am...Most of the time that is true...but occasionally I miss the mark and that feels awful. Some of my readers ae folks from the universe of sewing and they understand all of the sewing processes and term,s. others of my readers come from the Jewish world and the texts and rituals are as familiar as the simplest sewing tasks are for you. I have to make all of it clear to all of my readers...( and at the same time not sound like I am talking down to people ( Ugh! the WORST!)
DeleteBeautiful and powerful!
ReplyDeleteThank you Lisa.
DeleteUtterly beautiful: a work of art. Shana Tova.
ReplyDeleteThank you Vivien....and now you know my secret goal ...to get my work to cross over from ritual object to art...I don't always get there...but sometimes I do.
DeleteWhat a beautiful piece, Sarah, and so much meaning. I always enjoy reading about how you go about making these, and deciding on things from the verses used to the color scheme to how you work out the design. Each post is an education to me, as well as an inspiration. Thank you for sharing.
DeleteThank you Charlotte. I know that most of my works is very niche...and not the the lovely Lutheran niche that is your spiritual home. I appreciate that you are willing to dive in here with me.
Delete